Sometimes
locals call their village Shenevo ("Shee-nio-vo), but usually
they say Shanevo (Shah-nio-vo). They like "Shah" solid,
well grounded sound. I found the meaning of the word Shanevo
in the very well respected Dal's Dictionary of Russian language
"Lasy, scatter-brained loafer". Strangely enough long time
ago very industrious people lived in Shanevo village. It
was the only village in Russia during serfdom times (abolished
in our country in 1863) where serfs paid ransom and freed
themselves! |
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The Lake Dolotzo is 3 km long. The widest part of the lake
is 500 meters. One end of the lake is "sharp". I think this
is the reason why the lake got its name. Doloto is a sharp
metal instrument, Dolotzo is a small Doloto. The lake as
deep as 30 meters in some places. The color of the water
is brown-black Put your hand into the water and hold it
10 inches down you won't be able to see it. The water in
the lake has healing qualities. All your cuts will be healed
if you washed them with this water. Tea made in Samovar
is very tasty, especially if you add some local flowers
in it. But only those who tried this tea can appreciate
it.
40-50 houses could be counted in the village in the past.
These days, after numerous fires, war, soviet experiments
in agriculture only 14 houses left. Most of them belong
to "dachniks" people from Moscow and St'Petersburg who come
to Shanevo for summer. At night big bears come to the village.
You can easily catch a wild rabbit in your yard. Once locals
found a dead lynx in the shack. Wild animal was trying to
hide from hunting wolves and died from wounds No need to
mention snakes they are everywhere. Watch your steps! Peaceful
image of the Dolotzo Lake with my blue boat for fishing.
So as you can see Shanevo is a backwoods. You can hardly
find such a backwoods in the middle of the Russian plane
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40-50
houses could be counted in the village in the past. These
days, after numerous fires, war, soviet experiments in agriculture
only 14 houses left. Most of them belong to "dachniks" people
from Moscow and St'Petersburg who come to Shanevo for summer.
At night big bears come to the village. You can easily catch
a wild rabbit in your yard. Once locals found a dead lynx
in the shack. Wild animal was trying to hide from hunting
wolves and died from wounds No need to mention snakes they
are everywhere. Watch your steps! Peaceful image of the
Dolotzo Lake with my blue boat for fishing. So as you can
see Shanevo is a backwoods. You can hardly find such a backwoods
in the middle of the Russian plane |
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The Lake Dolotzo
is 3 km long. The widest part of the lake is 500 meters.
One end of the lake is "sharp". I think this is
the reason why the lake got its name. Doloto is a sharp
metal instrument, Dolotzo is a small Doloto. The lake as
deep as 30 meters in some places. The color of the water
is brown-black Put your hand into the water and hold it
10 inches down you won't be able to see it. The water in
the lake has healing qualities. All your cuts will be healed
if you washed them with this water. Tea made in Samovar
is very tasty, especially if you add some local flowers
in it. But only those who tried this tea can appreciate
it. |
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Sometime
back in history this lake and my village was local center.
Russian Orthodox monastery was situated at the lake. Lutvanians
destroyed it in 17th century (o, these Lutvanians!). My
Grandma Nastia told me that monks hid all monastery treasures
in the big church bell, then sealed the bell and hid the
bell itself. According to the legend they dropped it into
Dirt Luka silty, swampy part of the lake. What got into
Dirt Luka lost forever, people say. It was a rumor though
that the bell was not sank but buried under the crooked
(curved) pine tree on the village cemetery. Giant pine trees
are still growing. That's all what's left of that old monastery.
I remember very vividly that old crooked pine tree, hanging
over the dirt road. I always shrivel walking that road at
night. Big trees waiving their heavy branches like claws
they are mourning and groaning and creaking. |
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Shanevo
is elevated high on the hill. The entire area is a big hill
called Valdaisky Height. It is known in Russia as the Zone
of Anomaly. You can feel the presence of special energy
in steep old hills and abrupt cliffs. These curves of the
land remind me of a woman's body. When I'm in Shanevo I
always feel the presence of woman origin of this land. As
you can see on the map Shanevo village is situated on a
plato. Rivers are going down to North and South from this
elevated area. Famous river Volga the symbol of Russia takes
the beginning a little further down the map, only 60 km
from the village. Shanevo is surrounded by marshy land.
A very small lake Yaichko ("An egg") very well
known in this area for the great quantities of blueberries,
cranberries and "moroshka" berries. Several rivers
take their beginning from this vast marsh area including
Yavon River, mother-river for Dolotzo lake.
Famous Russian pilot the hero of the war against Germans
in 1942-1945 had his plane crash in this marsh. With his
legs broken he was crawling through the marsh for several
month eating only pinecones and drinking water. For a
long time the fuselage of his plane was seen stuck out
of the marsh, locals say. Other sight of anomaly is in
1 km from the village an old mine. It housed a strategic
weapon with the atomic warhead. From my best estimation
this head aimed toward to North Carolina, US.
I have to say
that Shanevo people didn't have electricity until 1970s.
They were using oil lamps, they were making bread in mason
stoves and washing themselves in old style bath houses
with firewood heating and no ventilation (method "po-chernomu"
or "black method" because of the color of the
bath house walls).
Civilization
came to Shanevo on the wings of a military rocket. This
rocket was a big secret, so everybody was told about it.
To insure the secretness of the object they build a bus
stop at the sight. Once I saw that secret rocket! They
lift it up for maintenance, and the nose of the rocket
stuck out threatening USA! Once a week they were delivering
new team of service men to the sight by helicopter. The
helicopter was flying low above the village, roaring to
the amusement of locals. In the middle of 80th this secret
rocket was disassembled as part of demilitarization agreement
with US. The only left was that old mine. Parts of the
equipment soon were taken apart by locals to be sold for
color metal scrap. Then 30 meters deep mine was filled
up.
For the unemployed
locals roaming around the village former military base
is the source of all kinds of treasures and often the
only source of income. They sell scrap metals to those
"city guys" who buys up. The repertoire of "goodies"
can easily be extended by aluminum forks and spoons stolen
from the houses of "dachniks" people who goes
to the city for winter and leave their houses unattended.
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Last
spring the oldest local Babushka died in Shanevo. Her name
was Pania. She was buried on the village cemetery. But it
is not easy to get to the cemetery, as it is not easy to
get to Shanevo itself. Streams, marshy valleys, mad hollows
on the roads make it really hard for regular transportation
to get through especially in Spring. You can get to Shanevo
only if you REALLY want to. It was so muddy spring time
that it created a problem how to get to the cemetery to
bury Babushka Pania. Tractor had no chance to make it. Locals
decided to go by boat across the lake. Her little coffin
was placed in the Serega's boat. People from Shanevo and
their neighbors from nearest villages got into other boats.
They were pulling Babushka Pania's boat behind them on the
string. This medieval looking procession took the coffin
to the cemetery on the other side of the Lake.
I can imagine mythical someone who conveys the souls of
the dead to the other side. But in this case it was not
Leta River, but Dolotzo Lake, and it was not Kharon rowing
the boat but Serega with no teeth. He lost them all during
winter fishing. |
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Dense
pink fog was slowly filling up the hollow of Dolotzo Lake.
First rays of morning sun were touching hills, trees and
Russian houses darkened by age. My village of Shanevo was
waking up slowly. I could hear the creaky sound of rowlocks,
water splashes made by a lonely fisherman's boat in the
Lake. The rooster is crowing somewhere far away, in the
other village across the Lake. There are no more roosters
in Shanevo I had this dream so many times. The same dream
over and over again. Sometimes in this dream I'm going back
to old times. Strange animals are wondering around. Giant
trees are hanging over the lake. Does not look like my village
But I know that this is still my Shanevo. |
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